Summer: The Time for Garden Planning

Summer is an excellent time for garden planning

Summer
time and the livin’ is easy.  If you
garden with California native plants, garden chores are minimal now, leaving
plenty of time for pure enjoyment. 
Summer is also an excellent time to evaluate and to plan ahead for the
next growing season.   So grab your
favorite summer beverage and your garden notebook, relax in a comfortable
garden chair, and plan to make your garden even better in the coming year.

Start
by giving your garden a critical look.  Are there specific
areas on which you want to focus in 2015-16?  Note that down. Are you replacing your lawn
(or decreasing its size)?  Have plants succumbed
to the drought and need replacing?  Are
there plants you dislike (for whatever reason) and need to remove?    Are some plants too big for their area?   

Focusing
on specific plants/parts of the garden is a good way to begin your yearly
planning.  It makes planning more
manageable and suggests actions you can take to prepare.  For example, you can save water by not
watering plants slated for removal.

Walk
around the entire garden,
looking
closely at individual plants. 
Are there plants that are/have been sickly or suffering from pests and
diseases? You might want to look for more robust alternatives.  Are there diseased or dangerous limbs that
require immediate removal and disposal? If so, sterilize your pruners/pruning
saw and get to work.  Diseased or
hazardous limbs call for immediate action.

Look
critically at the hardscape (the non-living elements of the garden). Are paths and walkways located in
the most logical places? Do you need better access to garden beds or other
parts of the garden?  Are paths/walkways
wide and stable enough to accommodate the people/equipment that routinely pass
over them (trash barrels; garden carts; etc.).  
Are paths/walkways safe to use?  
Do they add to the beauty of the garden?

Look
critically at the amount of shade your garden provides.  Summers (even winters) will be hotter in the
future.  Are there shady places for
outdoor seating and dining?  Would a
screen, patio or awning make your house and garden cooler?   Shade should be a priority for at least
parts of your yard.  Consider hardscape
options as well as shade trees, vines on trellises, vine-covered arbors, etc.

Do
you have a water feature in your garden? 
Would you like one?  Water
features can be small and water-wise (recycling water).  The sound of moving water is cooling and
birds/insects can drink at many types of water features.  

Consider
ways to make your garden more water-wise.  Review or
determine your water goals for the garden (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/02/designing-your-new-california-garden-9.html).
 Consider ways to make better use of precious
precipitation and irrigation water (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/02/harvesting-rain-introduction.html) 

Review
the garden photos
you’ve
taken through the year. (note: if you haven’t taken occasional/monthly
photos of your garden, now is a good time to start).  Is there something of interest (flowers; fruit;
foliage) at all times of the year?  Are
there enough flowering plants to supply pollinators from March to October?   Are cut
flowers available at times you need them?

Summer is a great time to look critically at your garden

Consider
the views from common vistas.  Take a critical look at the aesthetic aspects
of your garden.  Do you like the views
from common vistas (like your front walkway, back porch or living room window)?   What
don’t you like?  Can you hide an
unattractive utility area or air conditioner? 
Does the design appear unbalanced? 
Lack a focal point?   For more
design ideas review our posts on creating a design plan:

• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/06/designing-your-new-california-garden-11.html




• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/07/designing-your-new-california-garden-11.html
  and




• http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/08/designing-your-new-california-garden-11.html
  

Consider
the useful aspects of your plants.
 Growing edibles (including native
edibles) is gaining popularity and many gardeners raise at least some edible
plants. But the choice is yours.  Does
your garden produce the right amount of edibles (fruits & berries;
vegetables; seeds; spices/teas)?   Does
the garden provide enough materials for favorite garden crafts like potpourri
or soap-making, paper-making, pressed flower crafts, natural dyeing?   

Think
about the visitors to your garden.  Do people love to visit your garden?  What do people like most?   Are there changes that would improve their
garden experience (more/more comfortable seating; shade; tables for food/drink,
etc.)?

Does
your garden smell wonderful?  However you define ‘wonderful’, scent can be
an important addition to a garden.  Would
your garden be more interesting with more scented flowers or foliage?

Consider
signage for your front yard.
You might be surprised at the number of  people who walk past your yard every day.   Front
yards can be wonderful educational venues. 
Let passersby know that your front yard is water-wise and
life-friendly.  Consider small signs with
the names of some of the more interesting plants.  

Inexpensive
sign holders are available from Gemplers (http://www.gemplers.com/product/G49600/Galvanized-Sign-Holder-18-Stake-5x4?pfx=OAWP)
or Westhort (http://www.westhort.com/store/pc/Sign-Holders-c23.htm?pageStyle=h&ProdSort=19&page=4&idCategory=23&SFID=&SFNAME=&SFVID=&SFVALUE=&SFCount=-1&viewAll=yes
)  You simply design & print out your
sign, laminate it and insert it in the holder.  
Or purchase a native plant sign from the California Native Plant
Society’s on-line store: http://store.cnps.org/.

Watch
the birds, butterflies and other pollinators visiting your garden.  Is there enough for them to eat?  Is water regularly available?  If not, plan to improve that in the next
year.  Are there specific birds or insects
you’d like to attract to your garden?  
Summer is a wonderful time to learn more about their needs.  Spend some time on the internet or at the
(air conditioned) library; find out what your favorite creatures need to make their
home in your garden.

Register
your habitat garden.  Do you provide habitat for birds, butterflies,
Monarch butterflies or pollinators?  Now
is a great time to register your garden as a habitat garden.  Here are some useful websites:

• http://www.nwf.org/How-to-Help/Garden-for-Wildlife.aspx




• http://nababutterfly.com/butterfly-garden-certification-program/




• http://www.xerces.org/million-pollinator-garden-challenge/




• http://www.monarchwatch.org/waystations/certify.html

 

Design
new/renewed areas (if any).  If you’re new to the design process we
recommend our series ‘Designing Your New California Garden’ : http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/07/designing-your-new-california-garden-1.html
   Designing a new garden area can be fun,
creative and satisfying.  If designing’s
not your cup of tea, now is a good time to find a garden designer who will help
bring your ideas to fruition.

Order
seeds and (especially) bulbs.  As native plant gardening becomes more
popular, some seeds and bulbs disappear quickly from seed and bulb sources.   For a list of California native seed, plant
and bulb sources, see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/southern-california-native-plant-seed-sources-1213.

If you don’t already
have them, start a Garden Notebook and
personal Garden Calendar.   Note when seeds germinate, plants flower and
fruits ripen.  Jot down ideas for future
projects.  Paste in pictures of
inspirational gardens and luscious plants.  
Note what works and, perhaps more importantly, what doesn’t.  A Garden Notebook keeps all the things you
need in one place: and there’s something satisfying about that!

 

 

 

We
welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

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Surviving the Drought

Surviving the Drought: water-wise front yard, Redondo Beach CA

What
a stressful time for California gardens and gardeners!  We’re into the fourth year of the worst
drought on record.  Many gardeners must decrease
water consumption by 25% or more; and even water-wise gardens are beginning to
show the long-term effects.  So, what’s a
gardener to do to survive the drought?

Those
who installed water-wise gardens well before the drought are fortunate; an established
water-wise garden has the best potential to survive until the next rainy
season.  This is particularly true if
last winter’s meager rains were supplemented with winter/spring
irrigation. 

Some
readers installed water-wise gardens more recently – or not at all.   Your challenge is greater, but not
insurmountable. You’ll need to water a little smarter, and revise your
expectations; some plants won’t make it, given current restrictions.  In the wilds and in our gardens, four years
of drought are difficult for young plants to survive.  

Remember
that young plants – even those that are water-wise – need extra water for the
first summer (grasses; smaller shrubs) or up to the first 3-4 years (large
shrubs and trees).  A good rule of thumb for
California native plants is twice the recommended (mature) water for the first summer;
1 ½ times for the second summer and 1 ¼ times the third summer.

 

Much
has been written on ways to reduce water consumption.  Some of the tips  below are nothing new; you’ve heard them
before from your water company or other sources.  But any idea merits consideration these days,
and a few may be new to you.   Hopefully,
these tips will help save water and
permit your garden to survive in the best shape possible.

1. Conserve as much water indoors as possible.   Short showers, sponge baths if
   feasible, low-flow toilets, doing full washer loads, etc. Water saved in
   the home can be used to water your garden.




2. Use ‘clean’ house water to provide extra water to
   vulnerable plants.  When you heat shower water, wash hands and
   rinse dishes, collect the water in a bucket or dish pan.  Use it on plants that need a little
   extra water.  You’ll be surprised
   how much water you collect every day.  If your local codes  allow it, consider the pros and cons of
   using gray water (more on this in a future post).




3. Check for water leaks, indoors and out.  Are there leaks in irrigation valves,
   pipes, hose bibs, hoses, drip irrigation tubes?  Even a slow leak can waste significant
   amounts of water.  Do a quick check
   of irrigation systems every couple of weeks.  Fix leaks - or at least collect the water
   and use it.  Listen for toilets
   running when they shouldn’t be (you have to get close to the toilet or the
   pipes to hear it).  Toilets with
   slow leaks are a common home water waster.

 

Surviving the Drought: let dry conditions hasten lawn removal

4. Turn off the water to your lawn if you plan to
   replace it.  Now is a great time to let Mother Nature
   help remove the old lawn.  Put up a sign
   informing your neighbors that you’re replacing the lawn with a water-wise
   alternative; make it colorful and/or humorous.  Remind passersby that ‘Gold is the New
   Green’ and that California has always been both green and golden.  

Removing
a lawn is the patriotic thing to do in Southern California and other dry
regions.  And waiting to replant until next winter is the smart way to go.

5. Withhold water from plants you want to remove.  Most gardens contain  plants that are old, unsightly, too big,
   sickly, etc.   Why waste water on
   them?  If feasible, let Mother
   Nature hasten their demise; the job of removal will be easier as well.   Once again, a well-placed sign will
   help allay neighbor’s fears that you are abandoning your yard.




6. Prioritize your plants.   Big and/or
   important plants should get first priority in terms of water.   Shade trees, arbor vines, fruit trees,
   vegetable crops – any plant that provides important services to your
   family – those are the plants that deserve the water.   Smaller plants and those that grow
   quickly – including ornamental grasses and bedding plants – can be
   replaced when conditions improve.

Surviving the Drought: group plants by water needs (Water Zones)

7. Review your Water Zones (hydrozones): If you planted a ‘New
   California Garden’ (see http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/07/designing-your-new-california-garden-1.html
   ) your plants are grouped based on water needs (Water Zones).  Review the Water Zone concept (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/04/water-wise-gardening-tip-save-water.html
   ).  Plants that are Water Zone 2
   need only be watered when the ground is dry at a depth of 3-4 inches.  Check the soil before you water; established
   Zone 2 plants may require water only once a month.

Surviving the Drought: mature citrus trees are water-wise.

8. Review the water needs of trees and shrubs. Trees/shrubs from dry climates
   do best with occasional deep water. 
   If you have mature trees/shrubs from dry climates – including
   citrus trees, olives, eucalyptus, mediterranean herbs and others from S.
   Africa, Australia or the Mediterranean region – water them monthly or
   less.  Slowly water with a hose to
   deeply water.  The plants will
   likely be more healthy and productive.




9. Water early/late in the day and on cooler days.   If you garden with water-wise native
   plants, the weather report is your best ally.  Wait for a period of cooler weather
   (with more clouds or the marine layer) to water your native plants.  For optimal plant health, summer water
   at times that are followed by several days of relatively cooler weather.   Hot, moist soils promote root fungi and
   other plant diseases.




10.  Conserve
    soil moisture with mulch.  We’ve
    written before about the use of mulches (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html
    ).  Some local native plants
    normally need only a thin layer of mulch. 
    In the current drought we recommend adding an additional 1-2 inches
    to the recommended mulch depths.  If
    next winter brings lots of precipitation, simply rake away the excess
    mulch.  Remember to leave a 6-12
    inch mulch-free zone around tree/shrub trunks.

Surviving the Drought: add a little extra mulch

11. Keep irrigation water at ground level.  Evaporation is a problem with all
    overhead irrigation (even the new, water-wise sprinklers).   The more irrigation you do at ground
    level, the more water actually gets into the soil.

If
you currently water shrubs, trees and perennials with overhead sprinklers,
consider purchasing some inexpensive soaker hoses to get you through the
summer.  The porous ones made from
recycled tires are great; they’re inexpensive, readily available and come in
several lengths. Soaker hoses can be positioned where water is needed, covered
with mulch, and attached to a garden hose when watering.    Even
if you return to other irrigation methods in the future, soaker hoses can help get
your plants through the drought.

12. Insure that irrigation water goes where it’s
    needed.  Check the placement of soaker hoses and
    drip irrigation – are they really watering the plant root tips (often near
    the drip line) or do they need to be moved?  

 

Surviving the Drought: use hose-sprinklers

13. Consider using a sprinkler attached to a hose
    rather than conventional irrigation systems this summer.   Hand irrigation allows more flexibility
    in the placement and amount of water. 
     Many of the old-fashioned
    (and inexpensive) oscillating, whirling or stationary hose sprinklers lose
    less water to evaporation than conventional sprinklers.  They can be positioned and adjusted to
    water precisely as needed.    If
    feasible, consider using them – in at least some areas of the garden - this
    summer.




14. Direct the water precisely when watering new or
    vulnerable plants.
    When providing additional water to individual plants, be sure that the
    water goes just where it’s needed.  Trickle-watering
    with a hose is one idea.

Surviving the Drought: make a trickle-water bucket

We
also use 5-gallon plastic paint or utility buckets for directed slow-watering.  Just drill a 1/8 inch hole in the side of the
bucket, 1 ½ inches up from the bottom.  Place
the bucket near the plant, fill it with water, direct the flow and let the watering
bucket do the rest.

Surviving the Drought: trickle-water buckets in action

This
is an extremely efficient ways to water individual plants (we use these buckets
in restoration projects as well as in the garden). For larger plants, place
several buckets, as needed, around the drip line.   Watering buckets are easily filled with the
water saved in Tip #2, above.

15. Move potted plants to slightly cooler/shadier
    positions.
     Potted plants need more water than
    those in the ground.  Consider
    moving potted plants to a slightly shadier position (for example, a place
    with afternoon shade) during the summer. 
    Plants will likely thrive, and water requirements will decrease.  

Another
trick is to double-pot.  In this method,
the plant is planted in an inner pot (clay is best for water-wise plants) with
a diameter 2-6 inches less than that of the decorative outer pot.  A 2-4 inch layer of gravel is placed in the
bottom of the outer pot; the inner pot is then placed inside the outer pot. The
layer of air between the two pots helps keep the plant roots cool and decreases
evaporation.

Surviving the Drought: move pots to shadier places

16. Provide some afternoon shade where feasible.  Many water-wise plants – even those that
    like sun – will do fine with a little afternoon shade.  If you can figure a way to provide some shade, do so.




17. Learn from Mother Nature. While the current drought is
    historic, it’s likely a good indicator of things to come.  Climate predictions suggest that
    Southern California will experience more
    extreme weather in the future; some years will be dry (like this one)
    and others will bring excess precipitation.

 The past four years have provided excellent
lessons about which water-wise plants are ‘super-survivors’; we’ll discuss our
conclusions in a coming post. But keep good notes on plants in your own garden.
 You may conclude that some plants are
just too difficult to maintain during drought conditions.  What you learn today will help you plan for a
water-wise, life-friendly future.  

18. Taper off water to S. California native plants in
    late summer.  Remember that many California native
    plants need a dry ‘rest period’ in fall. Plants that normally experience summer
    monsoons (Sonoran Desert and some Baja California plants;  Chaparral shrubs, especially those from
    San Diego County) usually need some water in August.  Decrease water to the rest, beginning in
    mid- to late August.

Surviving the Drought: provide water for birds & insects

19. Provide a little drinking water for birds,
    butterflies and pollinators. Drought
    is tough on all living things. 
    Provide water for birds and insects; it takes just a
    little water to keep these garden visitors alive.




20. Be realistic: some plants will not make
    it.   It’s really hard to
    lose a plant, particularly one that you love or have lavished time/energy
    on.  But the harsh reality is that some plants will not survive the
    drought, no matter what you do. 
    That’s bitter medicine that we’re all having to swallow. 

In
Mother Nature’s Backyard and other gardens we’ve already lost several large
shrubs; we’re keeping a wary eye on our Bigberry manzanita and hope it
survives.  So you’re not alone – or a
poor gardener – if you lose some plants this summer.  If it’s any consolation, Mother Nature
herself (the ultimate Master Gardener) is having a tough time this year!

 

 

 

 

We
welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

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25 dressing table ideas to transform your bedroom

Cool dressing table ideas for design , placing, lighting and decoration, and useful tips for how to buy your makeup dressing table design for bedroom, modern dressing table designs 
Every woman needs a private corner in the house to take a break from household chores, alone with a book or laptop to sign postcards and invitations. This can be a handy dressing table design with makeup and various trinkets, dressing table designs .

Source and full article: Latest modern dressing table designs and ideas

Makeup Dressing table ideas in video gallery

The Psychologists say that the feeling of beauty Provides the self-confidence and the ability to practice your dairy life normally. so, you should ensures your beauty every day, and for this purpose you need a functional dressing table with mirror and storage boxes for makeup, accessories and other small things you need in your bedroom, our collection of dressing table ideas in the photo gallery and the gallery video will help you to transform your bedroom with some repairs in your old dressing table or with a new dressing table design meets your needs and gives your bedroom interior a luxury or modernity touch beside it's functionality.

See the video gallery of functional dressing table ideas

You will like also : Full catalog of dressing table designs, ideas and styles

The ideal place for the location of the dressing table designs is the area at the window, it must be put so that the light fell on the face of the person sitting behind them evenly. Unfortunately, in a small bedroom our capabilities are very limited, so that it can be placed at an angle to the window, but apply make-up in such a situation will be more difficult.

Small Dressing table design ideas and placing

For a small bedroom, I would advise to look at the narrow small dressing table designs ideas with depth of 40 cm or as a semi-circular patterns on two legs with fastening to the wall. It is desirable that under the table were one or two drawers for cosmetics, combs and other women's things.

Dressing table ideas for the location in the bedroom: The distance between the dresser and the bed (or other object in the bedroom) must not be less than 70 cm. Please note that this distance is suitable to sit comfortably on the dressing table chair (to go, to push, to sit), but not sufficient for the passage of another person. To ensure traffic areas that distance should be increased to 110 cm.

It is important ensure that makeup corner dressing table ideas are comfortable and functional. It is not necessary to buy a dressing table with mirror, mirror better to buy separately in the frame corresponding to the overall style of the bedroom and hang it on the wall - thus achieving significant saving of valuable space.

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Plant of the Month (July) : Coyote mint – Monardella villosa

 

Gulf fritillary (Agraulis vanillae incarnata) feeding on Coyote mint (Monardella villosa)

 

It’s only natural to think about
pollinator plants in July; so many pollinators – including the showy butterflies
and moths – are active right now!  Summer
is an excellent time to evaluate the habitat value of your garden and consider
new plants for fall planting (more on that topic later this month). Some of our
best native pollinator plants are in the Mint family.  And a particularly charming one, the Coyote
mint, is blooming right now in Mother Nature’s Garden of Health.

The genus name ‘Monardella’ honors the Spanish
physician/botanist Nicolás Bautista Monardes (1493-1588).  Monardes was interested in the medicinal uses
of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern plants, and wrote several books on these
topics. He did not, alas, ever see a Monardella; but we’re certain he would
have enjoyed learning about them!

At least 30 species of Monardella are native to California. The
taxonomy of this group is still under active revision, so the final number may
be higher or lower.  While some are
annuals, more (about two-thirds) are perennials and many are locally endemic
(grow in a limited geographic area).  Many
are rare or endangered in the wild, but a few species are now grown in
California gardens.  Among the latter, Monardella villosa (including its
sub-species and cultivars) is probably the most widely used.  The Narrowleaf/Flaxleaf monardella (Monardella linoides) and Mountain
monardella (Monardella odoratissima) are also available
from native plant nurseries and planted in S. California gardens.

Coyote mint (Monardella villosa) in Mother Nature's Garden of Health

The Monardellas are native to
western North America, from British Columbia, Canada to northern Mexico.  Most are aromatic – some with a strong minty
aroma – and most are used for medicinal and culinary purposes.  Coyote mint (Monardella villosa) is native to Central and Northern California and
southern Oregon. Four sub-species are currently recognized (Monardella
villosa ssp. franciscana; M. villosa ssp. globosa; M. villosa ssp. obispoensis; and M. villosa
ssp. villosa).  The species grows on dry, rocky slopes in the
coastal mountain ranges and western Sierras. 
It can still be found at elevations of about 1000 meters or lower (3000
ft or so), primarily in chaparral, oak woodlands and forest openings.   

One year old Coyote mint (Monardella villosa) plant

 

While the sub-species vary in
their characteristics, all are perennials (or half-woody sub-shrubs) with a
sprawling to mounded shape, 1-2 ft (0.3-0.6 m.) tall and wide. The many thin
stems are square in cross-section (typical of Mints) and may be woody at the
base.  The overall shape of the plant
depends somewhat on light, water and whether the plant is browsed or pruned
back in fall.  Yearly pruning encourages
a full, mounded shape.

 

Close-up of foliage - Coyote mint (Monardella villosa)

 

The leaves are medium green
(‘mint green’) to gray-green, generally small (several cm. or less than 1 inch)
and either rounded or lance-shaped. The foliage has a strong, minty aroma (some
say it smells like toothpaste) particularly on hot, dry days.  As seen in the photograph above, the leaves
arise from the axils (branching points), a characteristic of the Mints.  The foliage is usually hairy and the leaves are
stress-deciduous (normally dropped in dry conditions).  Occasional water can prolong leaf-retention
in the summer.

Flowers of Coyote mint (Monardella villosa) in tight clusters.  Note Skipper butterfly.

 

Monardella flowers are usually
quite showy and Monardella villosa is
no exception.  The species flowers in
summer – commonly June through July or August with a little water.   The flowers are clustered in tight,
ball-like clusters along the stem, another good hint that this plant is a Mint.   Flower color ranges from pale lavender to a
darker purple or magenta; petals sometimes have darker blotches.  The individual flowers (see below) have
narrow petals that are fused at the base and anthers (male sex organs) that
extend beyond the petals to promote pollination.

 

Close-up of flowers - Coyote mint (Monardella villosa)

 

In general, Monardellas like
sunshine and well-drained soils.   But in
Southern California, particularly away from the coast, they may prefer some
shade.  If your garden is hot, provide a
little afternoon shade.   

We’ve grown Monardella villosa in both sandy and clay soils.  The trick is to limit summer water to 1-2
times per month, preferably given at times when the temperatures are cooler.  Coyote mint is more tolerant of irrigation
than many Monardellas; but it does hail from rather dry conditions and really
dislikes excessive winter water.  If you
garden in clay, consider situating this mint on a slope or small berm.   Benign neglect – not irrigation – is best
for a long, healthy life.

 

'Russian River' Coyote mint (Monardella villosa 'Russian River')

 

One cultivar that does well in
local gardens is Monardella villosa
‘Russian River’.  This lush-looking
cultivar from Sonoma County (see above) was introduced to the horticultural trade by Cal Flora
Nursery.  The dark green foliage and
bright magenta flowers make this plant a showy addition to the garden.  Growing 1-2 feet tall and 2-3 feet wide,
‘Russian River’ tolerates sun/part-shade and occasional water.   As seen below, it looks more like a
groundcover than the straight species usually available in S. California
nurseries.

 

Flowers of 'Russian River' Coyote mint (Monardella villosa 'Russian River') are particularly lovely.

Coyote mint looks best with yearly fall
pruning.  Remove about 1/3 of each
stem/branch in the fall, after flowering has ceased.  Plants will grow new leaves and side branches
with the winter rains, producing a nice, bushy shape.  Remove the spent flowers (deadhead) as they
occur to prolong flowering or allow the old flowers remain until fall.  Birds will happily eat the seeds; the plants
may also naturally re-seed.

 

'Russian River' Coyote mint (Monardella villosa 'Russian River') in native plant garden

Madrona Marsh Nature Center, Torrance CA.

So, why consider adding Coyote mint to your
garden?  First and foremost, it attracts
a wide range of butterflies.  From the
larger Western Tiger Swallowtail, Gulf Fritillary and Mourning Cloak to the
smaller Blues and Skippers – all find the flowers simply irresistible.  You can’t do much better than Coyote mint for
a reliable ‘butterfly magnet’.  The
flowers also attract other pollinators including native bees and hummingbirds.  If you want a garden full of action, add a
Coyote mint or two.

 

Umber Skipper feeding on Coyote mint (Monardella villosa) flowers

A second good reason to plant Coyote mint is for
its culinary and medicinal uses.  This is
not one of the major medicinal mints; however an infusion (tea) can be used to settle
an upset stomach, and an infusion or a salve made from leaves is used for
respiratory complaints.  The leaves and
herbaceous stems can be used fresh or dry in recipes calling for mint.  The flavor is clean and fresh – and definitely
minty!   The foliage makes a delicious tea,
particularly when ‘brewed’ as a sun tea.   The flavor of this mint changes if exposed to
high temperatures.  Best to steep your
tea in cool water – or in the sun.

A third reason to consider Coyote mint is its
attractive foliage and lovely flowers. 
Combine Monardella villosa with other
plants that enjoy relatively dry conditions – for example the native
Salvias.  It provides color during the
hot summer, when Salvias are dormant. 
The ‘Russian River’ cultivar makes a nice groundcover on slopes and
under tall trees.   It also looks
charming cascading over a wall.   Consider
planting Coyote mint in an herb garden or in dry areas near the vegetable
garden to attract pollinators.  Or plant
a mixed perennial bed with California fuschia (Epilobium canum), the Grindelias, Common yarrrow (Achillea millefolia) and Asters (Aster species and Symphyotrichum chilense) for a long-blooming butterfly show.

 'Russian River' Coyote mint (Monardella villosa 'Russian River') in home garden,

 Redondo Beach, CA.

 

In summary, Coyote mint is a
plant with habitat, culinary, medicinal and aesthetic value.  It is a good addition to water-wise
California gardens and a delight to behold. 
We hope you’ll consider adding Monardella
villosa to your own home garden.

 

For a gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/monardella-villosa
 

For more pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/monardella-villosa-web-show

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

 

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your native plant gardening
questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

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