Gulf Fritillary Butterfly – Agraulis vanillae

Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanilla) on Coyote mint (Monardella villosa)

Bright orange butterflies are now
flitting through many Southern California gardens.  A bit smaller and brighter than the Monarchs,
they seem particularly attracted to the pink and purple flowers in Mother
Nature’s Backyard.  These colorful
visitors are the Gulf Fritillaries (Agraulis vanillae).

Gulf Fritillaries are medium-sized butterflies with a
wingspan of 2.5-3.75 inches (6-9.5 cm).  
They are members of the Family Nymphalidae, the brush-foot butterflies,
which includes such well-loved locals as the Monarch, Red Admiral and the
Painted, West Coast and American Lady butterflies.   While this large family is found world-wide,
the brush-foots are most plentiful in the tropics.  In fact, the Gulf Fritillary, itself, is best
considered a tropical butterfly.

The name ‘brush-foot’ refers to the front legs,
which are short or rudimentary, hairy and not used for walking.  North American brush-foot butterflies are
often medium-sized, with showy colors or patterning, and rigid, clubbed
antennae (knobs at the ends).  The vein
pattern of the forewings is also unique to this family.  You can see all of these characteristics in
the picture below.

 

Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanilla) on Purple sage

 (Salvia leucophylla)

 

The Gulf Fritillary belongs to the sub-family Heliconiiae, the heliconians or long-wings.   These, mostly tropical, butterflies have an
elongated forewing and are often brightly colored in shades of orange and
black.  Their colors ‘announce’ that they
are toxic; like the Monarchs, long-wing larvae feed primarily on poisonous
tropical plants.   

The geographic distribution of the Gulf Fritillary,
which feeds on Passion-vines, is limited by the availability of this larval
food plant.  While native to South and
Central America, the West Indies and the American South, its range spread to
California with the inclusion of Passion-vines in local gardens.  The first recorded sighting in Southern
California is from the 1870’s [1].

Gulf Fritillaries are colorful and distinctive
whether viewed from either the upper or lower side.  Females are only slightly larger and less
brightly colored than the males.  In both
sexes, the upper side is bright red-orange with prominent black veins on the
elongated forewing. The patterns are very regular, symmetric and
attractive.  The border of orange circles
(edged in black) on the hind wing resembles a lacy edging.  There are also some symmetric, black and
black-white dots on the upper side (see photo above).  For more good photographs, see references 2
& 3 at the end of the post.

 

The underside of these butterflies is even more
enchanting.  While not as bright, the
underside sports distinctive shiny, translucent patches rimmed in black.  These large blotches flash silver with
motion, a distinctive feature visible even in flight. No other local garden
butterfly has these large, silvery patches; they are the best identifying
characteristic for the Gulf Fritillary.  

 

But that’s not all! This is truly a lovely and
exotic butterfly when seen close-up. Closer observation reveals the intricate
coloration of the body and unusual orange eyes with dark spots (above).  Fortunately, Agraulis vanillae is fairly easy to photograph.  It’s relatively large and slow-flying; and it
perches and feeds regularly, making it a good subject for insect
photography.  For more tips on
photographing butterflies see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/life-friendly-gardening-photographing.html.

 

The larvae (caterpillars) are also distinctive.   Since we’re a California native plant garden
(sans non-native Passion Vines) we haven’t any photographs.  But wonderful photos of the complete life
cycle are available from the Rio Grande Valley Nature Site: http://www.thedauphins.net/id113.html.  The larvae are orange and black striped, with
rings of black spines around the body. 
You’ve likely seen them if you have the right Passion Vine in your
yard.  The larval coloration signals
‘don’t eat me – I’m poisonous’.  For more
on Gulf Fritillaries, Passion vines and poisons see: http://bugoftheweek.com/blog/2015/2/23/beautiful-but-stinky-gulf-fritillary-iagraulis-vanillaei.

Many adult Gulf Fritillaries live
only a few weeks, although some will overwinter in warm locations. These older
adults often look quite tattered by spring. 
Males can be seen cruising the garden, searching for females, most
months of the year in western Los Angeles County.  Females lay their mound-shaped eggs on the
larval food plants. 

 

Gulf Fritillary caterpillars eat
several species of Passion Vines (Passaflora
species) including Passiflora incarnata (Purple passionvine or maypops; native to Eastern U.S)
and P. foetida (Stinking
passionflower, Corona de Cristo or Running pop; native to tropical Americas).
Both of these plants can be invasive; in fact, the Purple passionvine is a
serious invasive pest plant in the Gardena Willows Wetland Preserve.  So while Passion Vines attract Gulf
Fritillaries, we have a love-hate relationship with them in our Preserve.  We’ve been known to call it ‘Hate it with a
Passion Vine’ as we work to remove it!

The Agraulis vanillae chrysalis (cocoon) looks like a
dried leaf hanging from the vine.  This
is another great example of the ways in which butterflies have evolved multiple
mechanisms (toxic chemicals; mimicry and camouflage) to insure survival of the
species. See references 2 & 3 for good chrysalis pictures.

 

Adult Gulf Fritillaries nectar on a variety of native and non-native
plants.  In Mother Nature’s Backyard,
they tend to favor purple-flowered species in the Mint family including Coyote
Mint (Monardella villosa), the
Woodmints (Stachys species) and the
native sages (Salvia species).  Of course they flock to tropical flowers like
the popular Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia
species) and the Lantanas.   They also
frequent native and non-native plants in the Sunflower family.

In their native range, Gulf Fritillaries live in
open areas like fields or openings in the tropical forests.  Here in California, you’ll see them in
urban/suburban gardens or areas near gardens with Passion vines.  Growers raise Gulf Fritillaries for sale and
they are released for weddings and other celebrations [1].  This has likely helped increase their numbers
in recent years.  In fact, they are a
very common butterfly in Southern California and not endangered anywhere in
their range.

We hope you enjoy watching these pretty butterflies
as much as we do.  But don’t feel you
need to plant a Passion vine – the abundance of Gulf Fritillaries in most
neighborhoods is a clear indication that we have enough Passion vines already!

___________________________

1.   
Art Shapiro’s Butterfly Site: http://butterfly.ucdavis.edu/node/448 

2.   
Butterflies and Moths of North America: http://www.butterfliesandmoths.org/species/Agraulis-vanillae

3.   
Butterflies of Orange County: http://nathistoc.bio.uci.edu/lepidopt/nymph/gulf.htm

4.   
Bug of the Week: http://bugoftheweek.com/blog/2015/2/23/beautiful-but-stinky-gulf-fritillary-iagraulis-vanillaei

 

 

We encourage your comments below.  
If you have questions about garden butterflies or other gardening topics
you can e-mail us at :  mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Read More

Preparing for (El Niño?) Winter Rains

 

Sustainable
gardening in Southern California means coping with highly variable
precipitation. This month, we’re continuing to manage the effects of an epic
four-year drought.  And now scientists
are cautiously predicting an El Niño winter, with higher than average amounts
of rainfall.  Yup, that’s gardening in
our capricious mediterranean climate!

The
U.S. Weather Service has official precipitation records for the L.A. Civic
Center going back to the 1877-78 season (the water year runs
from July 1-June 30) [1].  Since then, the average yearly rainfall is 14.93 inches [1, 2].  During the 138 year period, extreme
precipitation years (both high and low) have become more common. 

 

 

The
graph above shows the number of years below and above the average for two
25-year periods: 1890-1915 and 1990-2015. 
One thing is clear: there are more ‘extreme precipitation’ years (both
below and above average) in the current period.   The last 25 years had 10 years with a deficit
of at least 5 inches.  This compares to 6
such years in the earlier period.  But
there were also 6 years with 5 or more inches over the average (compared to two
from 1890-1915).  So we need to prepare not
only for more ‘drought’ years, but also for more ‘wet’ ones.

We
gave you some tips for surviving the drought (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/surviving-drought.html)
and summer planning last month: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2015/07/summer-time-for-garden-planning.html.
  This month we suggest ways to prepare
for this winter’s rains - El Niño or not. 

First,
a word of caution. Mother Nature’s Backyard is situated in the flat lowlands of
the Los Angeles Basin.  Our advice is
most applicable to gardeners in similar areas. If you live in the foothills, and
particularly if you live along a creek, in areas below recent burns, or those
prone to landslides, you may need to take additional precautions.  Consult your local municipality for advice on
preparing for an El Niño winter.  Recent
ocean temperatures indicate that this may be a very wet winter.  Prepare now if you live in a flood-prone
area!

The
rest of us still have several months to make our gardens both more water-wise and
more El Niño proof.   Some of the
suggestions below may not be applicable. 
But we hope you’ll adapt some for use in your garden – and get moving on
making them happen.  The time is now to prepare for the winter rains.

1.  
Consider decreasing the area covered
with impervious materials.
Traditional walkways, driveways, concrete or mortared patios all are impervious
surfaces. Water runs off them and, very often, into the storm drains and out to
the ocean.   That’s one reason why urban
areas like the Los Angeles basin need such extensive storm drain systems.

El Niño years can be tricky.  Whether they bring deluges or persistent showers,
excess water can become a challenge for local gardens.  Fortunately, you can take several steps to
prevent/decrease the effects of running or standing water in your garden. 

One strategy is to increase the percentage
of the yard that can infiltrate rain water. 
This allows more water to infiltrate in place, rather than aggregate in
ponds or rivulets.  We discuss several infiltration
options below (see suggestions 2 & 3). 
Another idea is to simply convert impermeable surfaces to permeable
ones.  This helps control excess rain water
and also increases the amount of irrigation water available to plants (by
decreasing summer run-off).

Permeable walkways in Mother Nature's Backyard

 

There are many ways to make walkways,
patios and driveways more permeable (see the links below).  Some, like replacing your driveway with
permeable paving materials, require more time, skill and money.  Others, like converting an old concrete patio
or walkway into something more pervious, can be done quite economically, if
you’re able to do most of the work yourself. 
For ideas on permeable surfaces see:

·       
 http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rain-permeable-paths-patios.html.

·       
http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/permeable-surfaces

 

2.  
Use the rainwater that falls on your
roof.  Your roof is a large rain collector. Does the water
from your roof end up in the storm drains? 
Does it make a muddy mess around your house, threatening the health of
your foundation? If so, now is the time to install gutters and harvest rain
from your roof.  

A rain chain is another way to direct water from a gutter

The advantage of gutters is that
they let you direct the water collected
by your roof. You can then store the water (see #4, below) or direct it to
places where it can be infiltrated into the ground (#3, below).   For
more information on rain gutters see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/02/harvesting-rain-gutters-downspouts-and.html.
 

3.  
Infiltrate more water into the
ground using a rain garden, dry well or dry swale. Water from impermeable surfaces must
go somewhere. In the past, most of it has ended up in the ocean.  But each year, more California gardeners are installing
simple infiltration ‘devices’ in their gardens. 

While getting rid of one problem
(excess runoff), these devices also solve another: providing deep water
resources for trees and shrubs.   They allow
water to infiltrate into the ground, replenishing the ground water.  Trees, shrubs and other long-rooted plants
can then access this ground water well into summer.

If you have an area where rain water
puddles, you may want to consider a simple infiltration device like a dry
well.  These take little space, are
relatively easy to install, and often solve the puddling issue admirably.  They can be used in unplanted areas, making
them a good option for patios and utility areas covered in gravel mulch.   See the links below for more information.

Rain garden - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

 

Rain gardens and infiltration swales
are the perfect complement to rain gutters, infiltrating the water from a roof.
While no two rain gardens or dry swales are the same, they all slow or store
water briefly, allowing it to percolate into the ground.   They
can be planted or not; they can be disguised as a natural-looking dry creek. Some
are used as seating or play areas in the dry season.  And they allow you to use plants that like a
little extra winter water, even if the rest of your garden is quite
water-wise. 

Rain gardens, dry wells and dry
(infiltration) swales are easy to incorporate when you are installing a new
garden (or re-doing an old one).    Like
all hardscape features, they’re easiest to install before a garden is
planted.  If you’re removing your lawn,
now is a good time to consider whether a dry well, rain garden or dry swale is
right for your garden. Here are some good resources:

·       
http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/03/harvesting-rain-rain-gardens-and.html.

·       
http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/infiltration-gardens-2015

·       
Plants
for Rain Gardens and Vegetated Swales: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/rain-gardensswales

4.  
Consider storing some water.  People in dry climates around the world store
rainwater for use in dry periods.  The
regulations on rain water collection/storage are changing, so check your local
municipality to learn what is legal. 
Nearly all S. California municipalities permit you to store water in
rain barrels, to be used for watering your garden (not for drinking).

As rain water storage gains
popularity, more options are available locally and on-line. Fifty gallon
plastic rain barrels are sold at many hardware and do-it-yourself stores.   Some water companies give them away for free
or at low cost.   And larger storage containers are also
becoming more common. For more on rain water storage see:  http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rainwater-rain-barrels.html

As
water becomes more scarce (and costly) it’s silly to not take full advantage of
the rain that falls on your property. California law is now clear – you own
that water!  Don’t let it slip
away.   Act now to use your clean, free
rain water this winter.

5.  
Use the ‘high’ and ‘low’ spots in
the garden to best advantage.  Sandy soils dry out quickly in
summer; clay soils tend to hold water, creating wet spots in winter.    Most gardens have areas that are ‘high and
dry’ and others that are low and moist. 
If not, it’s relatively easy to create a bit of garden topography with
low berms (artful mounds) and shallow swales. 

Whether your soil drains quickly,
slowly, or somewhere in between, creating modest garden topography has several
advantages.  First, a planted berm is
often an excellent way screen short, unsightly views (for example to block
views of parked vehicles).  Berms and
swales can also be used to direct and infiltrate rain water.  And they add interest to a flat garden.

Another benefit of berms and swales
is that they allow you to grow plants with water requirements slightly
different from those available in the rest of your garden.  For example, plants that hate wet feet can be
grown at the top of a berm (driest place). Plants that like a little extra
water often do well at the bottom of a slope or swale.  For more on creating garden topography see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/12/getting-to-know-your-gardens-soil.html.

 

Fresh organic mulch: Garden of Dreams, CSU Dominguez Hills

6.  
Consider replenishing mulch a little
early this year. Newly
laid mulch is  more vulnerable to washing
away.  If you use mulch, consider doing
your fall mulching in late summer or early fall.  That will allow the mulch to compact a bit
before the winter rains.  For more on
mulches see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2012/07/understanding-mulches_23.html

7.  
Use the weather forecast to plan
fall pruning.  Fall pruning is best done after the fall
heat waves but before the winter rains. 
Predicting the best time to prune can be a challenge.  Consult the long term weather forecast when
scheduling fall pruning.  Don’t forget to
consider the birds and other creatures that rely on your garden for food.  For more on the topic of fall pruning see:
http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/11/maintaining-your-new-california-garden_15.html

Fall pruning - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

8.  
Choose trees, shrubs and vines that
can take both drought and excess rain. Global climate change makes planning for the future a
bit more challenging.  We’re already
seeing some effects: hotter temperatures overall; more temperature and
precipitation extremes; changes in the timing of the seasons.  The recent drought is just a taste of things
to come.

Trees, vines and large shrubs are an
excellent way to provide shade. In fact, all local gardeners should be planting
now for future shade.  With planning and
proper care, large shade plants can live for many years.  But choosing
the best adapted plants is something we’re just beginning to grapple with. 

In Southern California, our best
choices will need to withstand both the periodic droughts and periods of
greater precipitation. Only certain plants are so adapted. California native
trees and shrubs are better candidates than those from the tropics or other
regions with plenty of precipitation. 
But what native trees and shrubs will be able to take both the heat and
the precipitation extremes?  We have some
ideas and will discuss that topic next month (September, 2015).

 

Planting Mother Nature's Backyard garden

9.  
Take advantage of winter rains for
planting.  Winter is the easiest time to plant in
lowland Southern California.  Soils are
well-moistened and the temperatures cooler.  That’s why California native gardens are
traditionally planted in late fall or winter.

Winter is not only the easiest time
to plant, but it’s also the best for plant health.  California native plants are adapted to our
seasonal weather patterns.  Many are
dormant (or at least slow growing) by late summer or fall; they are primed to
grow with the winter/spring rains.  Plant
them in late fall/winter and they will establish themselves right on
schedule. 

But plant California native plants
in summer and they’ll be ‘seasonally confused’; the heat says ‘it’s time to go
dormant’ while the irrigation water says ‘it’s time to grow’.  In fact, summer planting is difficult not only
for the plants, but also for the gardener.   Planting with the rains is yet another example
of working with Mother Nature.  Gardening elders have learned – often through
painful experience - that working with
Mother Nature is better than trying to work against
her!

An El Niño year can be an excellent
opportunity to start a new garden – or plant trees and large shrubs.  So do your summer planning now.  Figure out what plants you need.  Plan to buy required plants at the fall plant
sales, and plant them with the winter rains.

Rainy day - Mother Nature's Backyard garden

10.
Enjoy today’s weather, whatever it
may be.  The news on climate change can be downright
depressing.  The best antidote is to sit
in your garden.  Enjoy the hot, dry days
of late summer.  Watch the abundant life
that enlivens California gardens this time of year.  Enjoy the balmy evenings – and vow to plant more
silvery-colored shrubs to enhance your twilight garden.  

Look forward to the cool rains.  Sit out in your covered patio and smell the
rain.  Listen to the sounds of a rainy
day in your garden.  Watch the birds and
other creatures – what are they doing on a rainy day?  Put your potted plants out to benefit from
the good, pure water.

Those of us in California are
blessed with a wonderful climate, with seasons that promise beauty and interest
every month of the year (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2014/09/seasons-in-southern-california-garden.html).  But where ever you may garden, there’s
something wonderful in your garden right now. 
So, enjoy today’s weather – whatever it may be.

___________________

1. http://www.laalmanac.com/weather/we13.htm
   




2. http://www.wunderground.com/blog/weatherhistorian/show.html
   

 

 

We
welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your gardening questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

Read More

Plant of the Month (August) : Telegraph plant – Heterotheca grandiflora

Telegraph plant (Heterotheca grandiflora) - tall upright plant in foreground

Early
August and it’s full-on summer in the garden. 
Most of our annual wildflowers are long gone.  But several local sunflowers add their cheery
notes from now into fall.  One of these
is the Telegraph plant, Heterotheca
grandiflora.

Telegraph
plant is an annual or short-lived perennial native to Southern California and
Northern Mexico.   It’s part of many
plant communities including Coastal Strand & Bluffs, Coastal Prairie, Coastal
Sage Scrub, Chaparral and even Southern Oak Woodland.  Telegraph plant commonly grows on bare, sandy
soils at elevations less than 3000 ft (1000 m).   It has been introduced to Utah, Nevada,
Hawaii and even Australia (where it’s become an invasive weed). 

Also
known as Sticky daisy and Telegraph weed, Heterotheca
grandiflora is common in vacant lots, along roadways and on other bare
ground throughout lowland Southern California.  The name ‘Telegraph Weed’ hints at this
plant’s propensity to spread, which it certainly does (see below). 

Telegraph plant (Heterotheca grandiflora) - Madrona Marsh

Some
native plant experts argue that ‘weed’ should not be used for plants native to
an area.  The term ‘weed’ refers to a
‘plant in the wrong place’. And ‘weed’ has been used to denigrate significant native
plants that have the misfortune to be deemed ‘not showy’.  We, ourselves, prefer ‘Telegraph plant’ to
‘Telegraph weed’; it is both more respectful and more contemporary. 

The
origin of the ‘Telegraph’ is lost in history. 
It may refer to the tall, straight stems (that resemble telegraph poles)
or the spread of the plants (like a line of telegraph poles spreading across
the landscape).  Others point to the
strong, creosote-like scent – not unlike that of old-time telegraph poles.   All
are feasible explanations for the unusual common name.

Older sources sometimes refer to Telegraph
plant as Heterotheca floribunda.  In fact, the name ‘floribunda’ (abundant
flowers) is arguably a better descriptor than ‘grandiflora’ (‘large-flowered’). 
Many a student has scratched his/her head over this plant being called
‘large-flowered’!

Seven
species of Heterotheca are native to
California.  In addition to Telegraph
plant, False goldenaster (Heterotheca sessiliflora), Camphor
weed (Heterotheca subaxillaris) and Hairy false goldenaster 
(Heterotheca villosa) are native to Los
Angeles County (the latter three usually in the foothills of local mountain
ranges).   The
Heterothecas are members of the
Sunflower family (Asteraceae).  They share several traits with other
sunflowers, including composite flower heads, wind-distributed seeds, aromatic
foliage, importance as pollinator habitat and medicinal value.

Telegraph
plant can be an annual, biennial or short-lived perennial depending on local
conditions.  It dies back to the ground in
the fall after blooming.   In the garden, it’s often treated as an annual,
with plants removed entirely each fall.

Heterotheca grandiflora - flowering plant

 

Heterotheca grandiflora - second year

 

Telegraph
plant has a single stout, erect stem, 3-6 ft (0.5-1.5 m.) tall, with side
branches primarily at the top (see above). In fact, it looks a bit top-heavy.  Older plants may have several, shorter stems
and bloom earlier.  The leaves are medium
to pale green, succulent, oval to lance-like, and may have coarse margin teeth.  The foliage is densely pubescent (see below)
with thin, transparent hairs.  

Telegraph plants (Heterotheca grandiflora) - foliage

Heterotheca grandiflora - foliage (note resin glands on leaves)

You
can also see the resin glands in the photograph (they look like small dots on
the stem and leaves) These glands are actually specialized trichomes (hairs) that
produce and release secretions.  Heterotheca grandiflora is one of our
‘stickiest’ natives, with a strong aroma all its own. The sticky aromatic
chemicals – and the hairs - deter herbivory, protecting the young leaves and
late blooms. Some of the chemicals likely function as growth inhibitors for
other seedlings (allelopathic chemicals).  Wear gloves when handling Telegraph plant or
your hands will retain the distinctive, camphor-like scent for hours!  Really!!

The
photograph above shows another advantage to being hairy.  The dense hairs capture moisture from fog or drizzle,
providing natural ‘drip irrigation’ to the plant. It’s an ingenious adaptation
found in California natives from regions with periodic fog.   In some years, the water captured from fog is
the difference between life and death for such plants.

Heterotheca grandiflora - flower heads

The
flowers of Heterotheca grandiflora
are clustered in yellow sunflower ‘heads’ at the top of the plant.  Both the ray flowers (the flat, strap-like
flowers) and the inner disk flowers are bright yellow-gold.  Each head has 25-40 slender ray flowers and
30-75 small disk flowers in the center.  
The flower color contrasts beautifully with the foliage. 

 

Heterotheca grandiflora - flower head - note resin glands

Telegraph
plant can bloom nearly any month of the year in western Los Angeles
County.  But the main flowering season is
late spring through fall.   Flowers open
over a long time – as much as 4 weeks – providing bright color and nectar.  The plants are visited by a wide range of
pollinators including native bees, flower flies, butterflies and flower moths.  In fact, Heterotheca
grandiflora is a recommended pollinator plant for Southern California
gardens.  Finches also love the seeds.

Telegraph
plant is easy to grow (unless your entire garden is covered in thick mulch).  Like many wildflowers, Heterotheca grandiflora likes full sun to part-shade. It needs adequate
soil moisture until it begins to flower; but in most years can get by on
seasonal rains. It forms an impressive root for a short-lived plant.  We’ve grown it in sandy & clay soils with
equal success. Like many local wildflowers, Telegraph plant is truly
undemanding.

Heterotheca grandiflora - seeds are adapted for wind distribution

Collect
dry seeds in summer/fall and save until the winter rains.  Or allow plants to re-seed naturally; once
established, Telegraph plant will re-seed year after year.  The seedlings are pale green and fuzzy – easy
to distinguish from other seedlings in the spring.  Simply pull up small, unwanted seedlings when
the ground is moist.   You can also start
seedlings in paper cups and transplant out in spring.  The seeds are small, so barely cover with
soil.

Heterotheca grandiflora - seedlings

We
simply let Telegraph plant naturalize in Mother Nature’s Backyard.  It provides summer and fall color, and its
tall, distinctive stems provide vertical interest.  If used in a mixed flower bed, plant mid- to
back-bed, depending on the height of other plants.  Because it’s a late-bloomer, we find
Telegraph plant indispensible for pollinator, butterfly and bird habitat
gardens.  It is well-matched to the needs
of our local wildlife.   Gardens
featuring local native plants should also consider this common wildflower.

Heterotheca grandiflora (Telegraph plant) - in foreground

Garden of Dreams - CSU Dominguez Hills

Telegraph
plant also has medicinal properties - not surprising for a plant with such a
strong aroma.  Heterotheca grandiflora produces chemicals (sesquiterpenes and
others) that have both antibacterial and antifungal properties.  A decoction or tincture of the foliage makes
a useful cleansing wash for cuts, scrapes and minor skin wounds.  Related California Heterothecas produce anti-inflammatory chemicals.  This likely explains the use of a salve or
tincture of Telegraph plant as a topical lotion on sprains, arthritic joints
and other joint problems associated with swelling, inflammation and associated
pain.  We've made and used a Telegraph plant tincture as a topical treatment for joint pains.  It is quick-acting, long-lasting and amazingly effective!

In
summary, Telegraph plant is a local native wildflower that’s not used enough in
local gardens.  Its summer/fall blooms,
habitat value and medicinal properties make it both interesting and
useful.  The foliage can be used to make
gold and yellow natural dyes.  And little
finches eating the seeds are a sight to behold. 
We hope you’ll collect some seeds this summer and scatter them in your
garden.

Telegraph plant (Heterotheca grandiflora)

Home garden, Redondo Beach CA

For a gardening
information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-heterotheca-grandiflora 

For more
pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/heterotheca-grandiflora-web-show

 

For plant
information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

 

 

We
welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

Read More