Growing California Native Plants in Containers

Hybrid Monkeyflower thrives on afternoon shade on our porch

Container
growing has many practical advantages. 
Containers permit gardening in tiny places – even those with no
accessible earth. Growing plants in containers can be easier for those with
physical or time constraints.  Container
gardening allows the gardener to tailor-make the growth medium to the needs of
the plant. It also makes it possible to grow plants with very different water
needs side by side.

Container
gardening also has aesthetic benefits. 
Carefully chosen containers increase the beauty of many gardens.  A well-placed container can serve as an
accent or focal point; it can also provide attractive aromas or attract
favorite pollinators.  Groupings of
container plants can soften a stark wall, entry way or awkward corner.     Well-planned containers can even provide a
spot of color for most of the year.

 

Camas bulbs are lovely in containers

 

But
the big question for native plant gardeners is: can I grow my native plants in
containers?  The answer is an
enthusiastic but qualified yes.  We’ve
grown a number of California natives in containers – and learned a few things
along the way.  Here are a few tips for
those considering container gardening with native plants.

1.  
Start with the easy ones. Some plants are made for containers.
We suggest starting out with the easy ones, then graduating to those that
require more skill, time and patience.  
Annual wildflowers, perennials from bulbs and corms, ferns and grasses/grass-like
plants (rushes, sedges, reeds, cattails) are a good place to start.   Next easiest are the herbaceous
perennials.   The most challenging (and
those that require more work) are the larger woody shrubs and small trees.

 

Plants that require summer water - like these wetland plants

 - are easy to grow in containers

 

2.   Plants
that tolerate some (or regular) summer water are easier than those that like to
be dry.   In nature, many California native
plants have extensive root systems, allowing them to utilize both shallow and
deep soil moisture.  In containers, it’s
easy to over-water plants that normally require no summer irrigation.

Pots of spring-flowering annuals and
native bulbs (which must be summer dry) can be stored in a cool dry place over
summer.  Other summer-dry container plants,
including many Dudleyas, can watered sparingly if plants are moved to a shadier
location.  But some summer-dry species,
like White Sage, are very difficult to grow in containers in S. California.   Avoid trees and shrubs with strict
summer-dry requirements.

3.  
Avoid plants with very deep taproots.   These woody plants survive summer drought by
tapping into water reserves deep underground.  No container is deep enough to mimic these
natural conditions; such plants are easy to over-water in containers.   Plants with shallower taproots (for example,
perennials like the California poppy) can
be successfully grown in deep pots.

 

Lilac verbena likes some afternoon shade

 

4.  
Plants that tolerate part-shade or
shade are easier than plants that require full sun.  Containers
in full sun – and the planting medium they contain – get hotter than garden
soil.  And excess heat stresses plant roots
and can ultimately kill a plant. 

There are some work-arounds, if you
need to container garden in full sun.  Light
colored pots, larger pots, and those with thick walls remain cooler.  Probably the best solution is double-potting (cache-potting).
Be sure that the inner pot (the one which contains the plant) has a diameter
several inches smaller than that of the outer pot.  Fill the space between the pots with
vermiculite – or those plastic packing ‘peanuts’ – to insulate the inner pot.  

But the easiest solution, in hot
mediterranean climate gardens, is to locate pots in shadier places – or at
least move pots to shadier locations in summer/early fall.  Fortunately, many California native plants do
fine in part-shade or filtered sun.  These
include many annual wildflowers, perennials from bulbs/corms, herbaceous
perennials, ferns, woodland shrubs and many others.

We suggest you try moving pots to a
slightly shadier location during the hot months.  You can always move a plant back to a sunnier
spot if it starts to get leggy.

5.  
Choose the right size plant for the
space, usually based on growth rate and mature size.  This advice applies universally, but is
particularly important when choosing a native plant for a small area.  It’s much easier – and better for the plant –
to choose one that’s the appropriate size. 
Fortunately, smaller cultivars of many native favorites are becoming
available.  Ask the advice of your native
plant nursery-person.  They may be able
to suggest good alternatives

 

Many natives growing in pots are on display at Rancho

 Santa Ana Botanic Garden, Claremont, CA

 

6.  
Choose the appropriate container based
on root characteristics. Both
the size and the shape of the container can be important for growing natives
successfully.  Garden ‘bulbs’, annual
wildflowers and some perennials (ferns; succulents; many herbaceous perennials)
have relatively shallow roots, and can be grown in a wide variety of
containers.  For S. California, we
suggest choosing containers at least 10-12 inches in diameter and deep; smaller
sizes are too difficult to keep watered in our increasingly dry, windy climate.

Native shrubs and trees – even the
smaller ones – require more care in selecting an appropriate container.  Many of them have relatively deep roots, in
addition to the net-like shallow roots. 
For them, choose a pot that’s deep enough to allow the roots to
grow.  A deeper pot will also allow you
to water more appropriately.  You can let
the surface layer dry out between waterings, better mimicking natural
conditions.

Learn as much as you can about a
plant’s root system before choosing a container.  Ask your local native plant nursery-person
for advice.  They may be able to suggest
specific pots for the plant you’ve chosen. 
More container choices – including deep containers – are becoming available
each year.

7.  
Tailor the growth mix to plant
requirements.  Being able to tailor the growing
medium to a plant’s needs is a major advantage of growing plants in containers.  We like to start with a basic potting mix; in
our area, Kellogg’s All Natural Potting Mix or Kellogg’s Native Smart Planting
Mix are good choices.  You can then amend
the medium as needed, for your plants particular needs. 

To create a quicker draining mix add
perlite; for a moisture-retaining mixture add vermiculite.  A sandy mixture can be achieved by adding some
sharp (builders) sand, crushed rock (like decomposed granite) or lava
rock.  For an excellent review of soil
amendments see reference 1, below.

A richer, lower-pH soil (appropriate
for forest-floor plants like native Huckleberries) requires the careful
addition of peat moss, pine or redwood bark fines (finely ground pieces) or
humus.   We suggest testing the pH of the
potting soil before and after adding ph-lowering amendments, to be sure your
mixture is in the appropriate range. 
Test kits or pH paper are readily available in nurseries or where pool
supplies are sold.

 

Native Wild rose (Rosa californica) likes regular summer

water  if grown in a containers

 

8.  
Monitor soil moisture carefully,
particularly in extremely wet and extremely dry conditions.  Plants in pots are more vulnerable to both
extremes than plants grown in the ground. 
 If possible, move pots to a drier
location if plants seem to be ‘drowning’ during periods of excess rain.  Keep close watch on your containers during
hot, dry and windy conditions.  Even
large pots can dry out in a hurry.  We
sometimes water even large pots every other day – even daily – during the
hottest times.

9.  
Give container plants a little
fertilizer.  The roots of plants grown in the
ground continually reach out to obtain mineral nutrients.  Container-bound plants have no such option.  Even the least-hungry pot-grown native will
need a little fertilizer sometimes.

Base your fertilizer regimen on the
needs of individual plant species.  Those
described as growing in ‘nutrient-poor soils’ won’t need much.  Start off with a once yearly dose of ½
strength liquid fertilizer.    You can
always fertilize more often, if plants become nutrient deficient.

No need to buy unusual (or expensive) fertilizer
(unless your plant requires a low-pH type). 
We like the general purpose, liquid or water-soluble fertilizers; you can
easily mix them with water to create a half-strength solution. Fertilize when
the plant begins to actively grow – often in late winter or spring.

Plants that grow in leaf mulch on the
forest floor, and those from riparian communities, like a richer soil.  You may want to try incorporating a
time-released fertilizer into the potting soil each year.  We suggest starting with about half the
recommended amount – you can always add more. 
Just loosen the top few inches of soil and incorporate the
fertilizer.  Alternatively, use the
liquid fertilizer (half strength) several times during the growing season. 

 

Yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica) is a decorative

groundcover  that can be grown in a container

 

10.       
Repot or replace container plants as
needed.  If you’ve grown plants in containers, you
probably recognize the signs that a plant needs repotting: the roots or plant
are over-filling the pot, flowering decreases and the foliage may look a little
less healthy.   You can often carefully lift
a plant out of the pot to check if roots are becoming crowded.

Repotting a native is no different
from repotting other plants.  Let the
potting medium dry out a bit to ease removal. 
Then carefully remove the plant, divide it (if appropriate) or replant
in a larger container.  Plants that can
be divided include native ‘bulbs’, grasses/grass-like perennials and those that
reproduce via rhizomes or root sprouting. 
Such perennials are frequently used as groundcover plants, but can also be
grown in containers.  For more
information on repotting perennials see ref. 2, below.

For more information on repotting
native ‘bulbs’ see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html

When repotting woody natives into a
larger pot, we suggest upgrading to a pot of at least 6 inches larger
diameter.  That way you won’t need to
repot as often. Loosen the soil around the roots, and remove as much old medium
as can be easily removed.  Prune off any
roots that encircle the pot, and loosen other roots.  Then use fresh potting medium when planting
into the new pot.

If you need to repot a woody plant
back into the same pot, you’ll need to prune/thin the roots. This is done in
the same way for native or non-native species. For more on repotting techniques
see references 3-5, below.

 

The informal shape of Euphorbia misera works well with

 a traditional Mediterranean-style container

 

11.       
Choose container styles that
complement the plants and your architectural/garden style.  Containers can provide unique and stylish accents
– or just fade into the background, letting plants play the starring role. Choose
containers that work with your style/design and either complement or highlight
the plants they contain.   Consider
foliage, flower color and growth characteristics of the plants when selecting
containers.

Attractive containers are now
available in all price ranges. Or unusual, recycled ‘containers’ may be just
what your garden needs. Think about the role you’d like the containers to play
before you purchase.   You’ll likely be living with your choices for
a while.

12.       
Choose plants with ‘added value’.  When
choosing between plants, select the one that provides food, habitat, medicine,
craft materials and/or scent over one that is simply pretty.  Make the most of your limited space; that’s
smart, sustainable gardening at its best!

For more on
growing native plants in containers see:

Planning a Pot: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/container-gardening-2014
 

Captivating
Containers:  http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/container-gardens-2015

Native Foods on the
Small Side:   http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/container-gardens-edibles-2016-final

Beautiful Bowls:
containers for color through the year:   http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/beautiful-bowls-2017f

 

 

_______________________

1. http://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG42_Soil_Amendments_and_Fertilizers.pdf
   


2. https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-repot-houseplants/
   


3. http://www.wikihow.com/Repot-a-Plant
   


4. http://www.finegardening.com/how-repot-container-plants
   


5. http://www.hgtv.com/design/outdoor-design/landscaping-and-hardscaping/repotting-an-overgrown-shrub
   

 

 

We
welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

 

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Plant of the Month (March) : Wild hyacinth (Blue dicks) – Dichelostemma capitatum

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - Mother Nature's Backyard: Gardena, California

One of the true joys of spring is the unfolding of the spring
‘bulbs’.  We spoke of gardening with
California native bulbs, corms and rhizomes last month: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.  One of the earliest – and easiest – of the
local species is the Wild hyacinth (Dichelostemma
capitatum).   The scientific name is
pronounced dick (dike)-el-AH-stem-uh (or
dick-el-oh-STEM-uh) cap-ih-TAY-tum.

Dichelostemma capitatum is known by several common names
including Wild hyacinth, Blue dicks, Bluedicks, Common Brodiaea, Purpleheads
and School bells.  It is one of the more
common corm-producing perennials in California, with a range that stretches
from Oregon to Arizona and New Mexico, and south to Baja California and Sonora,
Mexico.  Its elevation range is also quite
unusual: from sea level to 7000 ft. (2,100 m.) in California.   In fact, it can be found growing in nearly
all California counties. 

Currant
taxonomy usually places the genus Dichelostemma
in the family Themidaceae (the
Brodiaea family), along with Bloomeria, Brodiaea,
Muilla and Triteleia – all
perennials from corms.  But some
taxonomists still include this genus in the family Lilliaceae (the Lily family) (1).  
The species has two accepted sub-species: the Sparse-flowered blue dicks
(Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. pauciflorum) and the more common Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. capitatum.

The
Sparse-flowered blue dicks grows in deserts and desert scrub of Central and
Southern California, as well as in Utah, New Mexico and northern Mexico.  Dichelostemma
capitatum ssp. capitatum, the
widespread subspecies, is native to western Los Angeles County and the Channel
Islands, as well as much of California. It grows in a wide variety of plant
communities including coastal strand, coastal prairie, mixed evergreen forest,
chaparral, valley grassland, coniferous forests, oak woodlands, redwood forests,
montane scree and on the fringe of coastal salt marshes and vernal pools.  The plants are more common in sunny openings
and after a disturbance (fire; landslide; etc.). 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - leaves

 

Wild
hyacinth is a relatively small, herbaceous perennial with fleshy, strap-like
leaves.  The foliage is low – perhaps 1
ft. tall or less – and leaves are usually sprawling and somewhat twisted.  The leaves of older corms may be nearly an
inch (2-3 cm.) wide and a foot or more long. 
Younger plants have leaves that are almost grass-like.  You can see leaves for a range of plant sizes
in the photo above.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - plants

 

In
warm-winter areas, the leaves begin to sprout in winter, after the rains begin
in earnest.  We often see them first in
December in our part of S. California. After rapidly growing, the leaves begin
to yellow at their tips just before the plants begin to flower.  Flowering usually begins sometime in February
(but may be as early as January or as late as March) in the lowlands of western
S. California; it’s as late as May or even June in colder parts of the state.  Flowering often commences after a period of
warm dry weather.

Unlike
some native ‘bulbs’, everything about Dichelostemma
capitatum is slightly twisted or wavy – from the leaves to the flower
stalks.  In fact, that’s one
characteristic that differentiates Dichelostemma from the Brodiaeas, which tend
to have straight stalks.  The flower
cluster is also tighter than that of most native Brodiaeas.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

leaves and flower stalks are often twisted or 'wavy'

 

The
leaves of Blue dicks are the ‘power plants’ that produce food to be stored
underground in the dry season.  That’s
why it’s important to let the leaves shrivel and dry of their own accord –
after flowering is done and the weather turns warm and dry.  The energy for next year’s growth is stored
in an underground corm – a thickened
part of the stalk whose function is food storage. 

The
corm of Dichelostemma capitatum looks
something like a garlic bulb.  We’ve
grown this plant for years – can’t believe we’ve never photographed the
corms.  For a good photo, see reference
2, below.  When you dig up the corm,
there often are offsets (cormels or cormlets), which are immature
corms.  These may be attached to the
parent corm or loose.   These will become
mature, flowering plants in 3-4 years.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 flower cluster

 

Wild
hyacinth has small, old-fashioned-looking flowers. Each plant sends up a single
flowering stalk, with flowers in a ball-like cluster at the tip.  Since not all the flowers open at once, a
single plant is usually in bloom for several weeks.  And if you have corms in areas with different
amounts of light, those in the sunnier areas will often bloom first.     

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

 close-up of flower

 

The
flowers are ½ an inch across (or perhaps a little more), with six petals that
form an open, bell-shaped flower. The petals spread wider as the flower matures
over a week or so.  The usual flower color
for our area is violet-purple, though the species may have white, pink or lavender
flowers on occasion.   One unusual
feature is the ring of pale, petal-like appendages that surround the six
fertile stamens (see above).

Western Tiger Swallowtail on Wild Hyacinth

 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 

Umber Skipper butterfly on Wild Hyacinth

 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 

While
the flowers have little scent (at least to us), they do attract hummingbirds
and butterflies.  The latter range in
size from Tiger Swallowtails and Monarchs to the early-flying Skippers (for
more on these butterflies see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2016/07/insect-postings-mother-natures-backyard.html).  There’s something utterly enchanting about a
butterfly nectaring on the delicate flowers!

After
flowering, Bluedicks flowers produce a number of small, black, irregularly-shaped
seeds.  You’ll know when the seeds are
ready; the seed capsule becomes dry and papery and the seeds start to fall out,
of their own accord.  Bluedicks are easy
to grow from seed.  If you want them to
naturalize, simply scatter the seed  and
rough up the soil a bit.  If you’re
really pressed for time, just let Mother Nature do the work.  You can also collect seed, store in a cool
dry place, then plant it with the winter rains. 
For more on growing corms from seed see: http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.

Wild hyacinth also reproduces vegetatively, producing
corm offsets (called cormlets or cormels). 
You won’t see these unless you dig them up.  But they will
produce new plants the next year. 
New plants have grass-like leaves and don’t flower until about their 3^rd
year.  We’ll get some good pictures of
seeds and cormels this spring – guess we’ve just been lazy about photographing
this common species.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

 easy to grow in pots

 

Bluedicks
is one of the easiest native ‘bulbs’ to grow. 
In fact, we heartily recommend it - even to those who’ve never gardened
with bulbs in their life.  This species
can be grown in just about any soil – in the ground or in containers.   It likes sun, but does fine under
winter-deciduous trees and shrubs.  It can
even be grown in dappled or bright shade – though the plants will be somewhat
leggy.

The
only real trick is the watering.  Like
all native ‘bulbs’, Bluedicks needs adequate water in winter and early
spring.  In a very dry winter, you may
need to supply it.  Once plants begin to
flower, or if leaves begin to yellow, it’s time to taper off the water.  This process happens naturally in a ‘usual’
S. California spring. 

But
‘usual’ is rapidly become unusual, and we’re often forced to begin supplemental
irrigation in spring.  So just mimic the
old days, and water your Bluedicks progressively less as weather warms up.  Once flowering ceases, really taper off; then
stop altogether for summer and fall. 
Bluedicks can take very occasional summer water, but need a summer/fall
rest.  Corms that get regular summer
water will rot.

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

Madrona Marsh Nature Center, Torrance CA

 

So,
how to achieve summer dry conditions? 
Easiest, perhaps, is to grow Dichelostemma
in containers that can be stored in a cool, dry place during the dormant
season.  If you have a dry area of the
garden – perhaps where you grow annual wildflowers and native grasses –
Bluedicks would do well there.  Under
water-wise trees that are winter-deciduous is another possibility.  But anyplace in the garden that you can allow
to dry out between deep waterings can support this garden bulb.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

Garden of Dreams Discovery Garden, CSU Dominguez Hills

 

If
you’re worried about drainage, plant your bulbs along a warm wall, pathway or
around rocks or boulders.  Mother Nature’s
Backyard has an abundance of ‘urbanite’ (recycled paving concrete chunks; Mother
Nature’s Backyard was a former dump site for construction debris and paving
from the old Carrell speedway, once located near the site).  We try to use these materials creatively in
the garden.  Not only are they useful for
bulb-growing, this ‘rubble’ reminds us that native plants can grow in even the
most challenging of soils.  Trust us –
the soil in Mother Nature’s Backyard contains more debris than we’ve ever seen
in an urban garden soil!  Sobering – but encouraging!!!

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 benefits from warm 'urbanite' - Mother Nature's Backyard

 

Like
most native ‘bulbs’, wild hyacinth benefits from digging up the corms
occasionally and thinning them (either by replanting or preparing a tasty
delicacy – see below).  In the old days,
wild animals and Native Californians dug up, scattered and replanted native ‘bulbs’
every few years. The digging also served to aerate the soil.  The disturbance helped the bulbs remain
productive, and modern gardens benefit from similar practices (3).   Other than that, you don’t need to amend the
soil – whatever you have will work just fine.  
We add a layer of new potting mix atop our potted bulbs each fall.  Alternatively, give a dose of ½ strength fertilizer
when the plants begin to grow.

Chicken wire protects native bulbs from hungry critters

 

If
you have gophers, consider planting your bulbs inside a small ‘cage’ made of
chicken wire.  This will keep the bulbs
safe and won’t prevent them from growing normally.  If you grow bulbs in pots, we suggest making
a chicken wire insert, cut to fit the pot, and laid atop the potting medium
after planting.  You can cover the
chicken wire with mulch if you like. 
This will keep out squirrels, skunks and other pesky urban critters on
the prowl for a tasty treat. 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

with annual lupine: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden

 

Bluedicks
is charming along walkways in spring, paired with annual lupines, California
poppies and other native delights.  The
purple flowers pair well with the yellows of Goldfields (Lasthena species) and Tidytips (Layia
species).  Bulbs can be grown among the
native bunchgrasses.  And they tuck in
nicely around native shrubs.  We like to
plant them close to pathways and seating areas – places where visitors can stop
and admire them and their pollinators.

 

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

in spring garden: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden

 

The
flowers are edible; use them raw as decoration in salads and on desserts.  But the most important edible portion is the
corm.  Bluedicks corms were dug by the
hundreds by native Californians.  In
fact, bulb patches were managed as a food crop and revisited yearly; in some
areas, particular patches were managed and harvested by individual families.
These corms were an important source of starch in traditional diets.  Corms were usually harvested in the spring.

The
corms can be eaten raw or cooked (4). They can be dried for storage or ground
into flour to be used in baked goods or as a thicken agent.  They can be fried, boiled, roasted or
baked.  Their flavor is mild and slightly
sweet; the slower the cooking time, the sweeter the flavor. 

In
summary, Dichelostemma capitatum is a
great example of a California native geophyte (perennial plant with underground
food storage organ).  It’s an easy choice
for even the novice bulb gardener.  It
comes back reliably, year after year; and it naturalizes, making it a good
bargain as well.  The flowers are pretty
and attract hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s a wonderful link to our natural
heritage in many parts of California.  And the corms are an edible delicacy, worthy
of the traditional and modern palette. 
So, what are you waiting for?

Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

Mother Nature's Backyard

 

For a
gardening information sheet see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-dichelostemma-capitatum

For more
pictures of this plant see: http://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/dichelostemma-capitatum-web-show

For plant information
sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

__________________

1. https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=DICAC5
   


2. http://encinitasnatives.blogspot.com/2015_11_01_archive.html
   


3. MK Anderson, and DL Rowney, Edible Plant
   Dichelostemma capitatum: Its Vegetative Reproduction Response to Different
   Indigenous Harvesting Regimes in California: Restoration Ecology [Restor.
   Ecol.], vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 231-240


4. Charles W. Kane. Southern California Food Plants:
   Wild Edibles of the Valleys, Foothills, Coast, and Beyond. Lincoln Town
   Press,  2013.

 

 

We
welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your questions to: mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com

 

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