Minggu, 05 Maret 2017

Plant of the Month (March) : Wild hyacinth (Blue dicks) – Dichelostemma capitatum






Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - Mother Nature's Backyard: Gardena, California








One of the true joys of spring is the unfolding of the spring
‘bulbs’.  We spoke of gardening with
California native bulbs, corms and rhizomes last month:
http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.  One of the earliest – and easiest – of the
local species is the Wild hyacinth (Dichelostemma
capitatum
).
  The scientific name is
pronounced dick (dike)-el-AH-stem-uh (or
dick-el-oh-STEM-uh) cap-ih-TAY-tum
.






Dichelostemma capitatum is known by several common names
including Wild hyacinth, Blue dicks, Bluedicks, Common Brodiaea, Purpleheads
and School bells.  It is one of the more
common corm-producing perennials in California, with a range that stretches
from Oregon to Arizona and New Mexico, and south to Baja California and Sonora,
Mexico.  Its elevation range is also quite
unusual: from sea level to 7000 ft. (2,100 m.) in California.   In fact, it can be found growing in nearly
all California counties. 






Currant
taxonomy usually places the genus Dichelostemma
in the family Themidaceae (the
Brodiaea family), along with Bloomeria, Brodiaea,
Muilla
and Triteleia – all
perennials from corms.  But some
taxonomists still include this genus in the family Lilliaceae (the Lily family) (1).  
The species has two accepted sub-species: the Sparse-flowered blue dicks
(Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. pauciflorum) and the more common Dichelostemma capitatum ssp. capitatum.






The
Sparse-flowered blue dicks grows in deserts and desert scrub of Central and
Southern California, as well as in Utah, New Mexico and northern Mexico.  Dichelostemma
capitatum
ssp. capitatum, the
widespread subspecies, is native to western Los Angeles County and the Channel
Islands, as well as much of California. It grows in a wide variety of plant
communities including coastal strand, coastal prairie, mixed evergreen forest,
chaparral, valley grassland, coniferous forests, oak woodlands, redwood forests,
montane scree and on the fringe of coastal salt marshes and vernal pools.  The plants are more common in sunny openings
and after a disturbance (fire; landslide; etc.). 








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - leaves


 


Wild
hyacinth is a relatively small, herbaceous perennial with fleshy, strap-like
leaves.  The foliage is low – perhaps 1
ft. tall or less – and leaves are usually sprawling and somewhat twisted.  The leaves of older corms may be nearly an
inch (2-3 cm.) wide and a foot or more long. 
Younger plants have leaves that are almost grass-like.  You can see leaves for a range of plant sizes
in the photo above.


 




Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) - plants


 




In
warm-winter areas, the leaves begin to sprout in winter, after the rains begin
in earnest.  We often see them first in
December in our part of S. California. After rapidly growing, the leaves begin
to yellow at their tips just before the plants begin to flower.  Flowering usually begins sometime in February
(but may be as early as January or as late as March) in the lowlands of western
S. California; it’s as late as May or even June in colder parts of the state.  Flowering often commences after a period of
warm dry weather.






Unlike
some native ‘bulbs’, everything about Dichelostemma
capitatum
is slightly twisted or wavy – from the leaves to the flower
stalks.  In fact, that’s one
characteristic that differentiates Dichelostemma from the Brodiaeas, which tend
to have straight stalks.  The flower
cluster is also tighter than that of most native Brodiaeas.








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

leaves and flower stalks are often twisted or 'wavy'


 




The
leaves of Blue dicks are the ‘power plants’ that produce food to be stored
underground in the dry season.  That’s
why it’s important to let the leaves shrivel and dry of their own accord –
after flowering is done and the weather turns warm and dry.  The energy for next year’s growth is stored
in an underground corm – a thickened
part of the stalk whose function is food storage. 






The
corm of Dichelostemma capitatum looks
something like a garlic bulb.  We’ve
grown this plant for years – can’t believe we’ve never photographed the
corms.  For a good photo, see reference
2, below.  When you dig up the corm,
there often are offsets (cormels or cormlets), which are immature
corms.  These may be attached to the
parent corm or loose.   These will become
mature, flowering plants in 3-4 years.








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 flower cluster


 


Wild
hyacinth has small, old-fashioned-looking flowers. Each plant sends up a single
flowering stalk, with flowers in a ball-like cluster at the tip.  Since not all the flowers open at once, a
single plant is usually in bloom for several weeks.  And if you have corms in areas with different
amounts of light, those in the sunnier areas will often bloom first.
     








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

 close-up of flower


 


The
flowers are ½ an inch across (or perhaps a little more), with six petals that
form an open, bell-shaped flower. The petals spread wider as the flower matures
over a week or so.  The usual flower color
for our area is violet-purple, though the species may have white, pink or lavender
flowers on occasion.   One unusual
feature is the ring of pale, petal-like appendages that surround the six
fertile stamens (see above).








Western Tiger Swallowtail on Wild Hyacinth

 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)


 




Umber Skipper butterfly on Wild Hyacinth

 (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)


 


While
the flowers have little scent (at least to us), they do attract hummingbirds
and butterflies.  The latter range in
size from Tiger Swallowtails and Monarchs to the early-flying Skippers (for
more on these butterflies see:
http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2016/07/insect-postings-mother-natures-backyard.html).  There’s something utterly enchanting about a
butterfly nectaring on the delicate flowers!






After
flowering, Bluedicks flowers produce a number of small, black, irregularly-shaped
seeds.  You’ll know when the seeds are
ready; the seed capsule becomes dry and papery and the seeds start to fall out,
of their own accord.  Bluedicks are easy
to grow from seed.  If you want them to
naturalize, simply scatter the seed  and
rough up the soil a bit.  If you’re
really pressed for time, just let Mother Nature do the work.  You can also collect seed, store in a cool
dry place, then plant it with the winter rains. 
For more on growing corms from seed see:
http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2017/02/gardening-with-california-native-bulbs.html.






Wild hyacinth also reproduces vegetatively, producing
corm offsets (called cormlets or cormels). 
You won’t see these unless you dig them up.  But they will
produce new plants the next year. 
New plants have grass-like leaves and don’t flower until about their 3rd
year.  We’ll get some good pictures of
seeds and cormels this spring – guess we’ve just been lazy about photographing
this common species.


 




Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

 easy to grow in pots


 


Bluedicks
is one of the easiest native ‘bulbs’ to grow. 
In fact, we heartily recommend it - even to those who’ve never gardened
with bulbs in their life.  This species
can be grown in just about any soil – in the ground or in containers.   It likes sun, but does fine under
winter-deciduous trees and shrubs.  It can
even be grown in dappled or bright shade – though the plants will be somewhat
leggy.






The
only real trick is the watering.  Like
all native ‘bulbs’, Bluedicks needs adequate water in winter and early
spring.  In a very dry winter, you may
need to supply it.  Once plants begin to
flower, or if leaves begin to yellow, it’s time to taper off the water.  This process happens naturally in a ‘usual’
S. California spring. 






But
‘usual’ is rapidly become unusual, and we’re often forced to begin supplemental
irrigation in spring.  So just mimic the
old days, and water your Bluedicks progressively less as weather warms up.  Once flowering ceases, really taper off; then
stop altogether for summer and fall. 
Bluedicks can take very occasional summer water, but need a summer/fall
rest.  Corms that get regular summer
water will rot.








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

Madrona Marsh Nature Center, Torrance CA


 


So,
how to achieve summer dry conditions? 
Easiest, perhaps, is to grow Dichelostemma
in containers that can be stored in a cool, dry place during the dormant
season.  If you have a dry area of the
garden – perhaps where you grow annual wildflowers and native grasses –
Bluedicks would do well there.  Under
water-wise trees that are winter-deciduous is another possibility.  But anyplace in the garden that you can allow
to dry out between deep waterings can support this garden bulb.


 




Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum) -

Garden of Dreams Discovery Garden, CSU Dominguez Hills


 


If
you’re worried about drainage, plant your bulbs along a warm wall, pathway or
around rocks or boulders.  Mother Nature’s
Backyard has an abundance of ‘urbanite’ (recycled paving concrete chunks; Mother
Nature’s Backyard was a former dump site for construction debris and paving
from the old Carrell speedway, once located near the site).  We try to use these materials creatively in
the garden.  Not only are they useful for
bulb-growing, this ‘rubble’ reminds us that native plants can grow in even the
most challenging of soils.  Trust us –
the soil in Mother Nature’s Backyard contains more debris than we’ve ever seen
in an urban garden soil!  Sobering – but encouraging!!!


 




Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

 benefits from warm 'urbanite' - Mother Nature's Backyard


 


Like
most native ‘bulbs’, wild hyacinth benefits from digging up the corms
occasionally and thinning them (either by replanting or preparing a tasty
delicacy – see below).  In the old days,
wild animals and Native Californians dug up, scattered and replanted native ‘bulbs’
every few years. The digging also served to aerate the soil.  The disturbance helped the bulbs remain
productive, and modern gardens benefit from similar practices (3).   Other than that, you don’t need to amend the
soil – whatever you have will work just fine.  
We add a layer of new potting mix atop our potted bulbs each fall.  Alternatively, give a dose of ½ strength fertilizer
when the plants begin to grow.








Chicken wire protects native bulbs from hungry critters


 


If
you have gophers, consider planting your bulbs inside a small ‘cage’ made of
chicken wire.  This will keep the bulbs
safe and won’t prevent them from growing normally.  If you grow bulbs in pots, we suggest making
a chicken wire insert, cut to fit the pot, and laid atop the potting medium
after planting.  You can cover the
chicken wire with mulch if you like. 
This will keep out squirrels, skunks and other pesky urban critters on
the prowl for a tasty treat.
 








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

with annual lupine: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden


 


Bluedicks
is charming along walkways in spring, paired with annual lupines, California
poppies and other native delights.  The
purple flowers pair well with the yellows of Goldfields (Lasthena species) and Tidytips (Layia
species).  Bulbs can be grown among the
native bunchgrasses.  And they tuck in
nicely around native shrubs.  We like to
plant them close to pathways and seating areas – places where visitors can stop
and admire them and their pollinators.


 




Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

in spring garden: Madrona Marsh Native Plant Garden


 


The
flowers are edible; use them raw as decoration in salads and on desserts.  But the most important edible portion is the
corm.  Bluedicks corms were dug by the
hundreds by native Californians.  In
fact, bulb patches were managed as a food crop and revisited yearly; in some
areas, particular patches were managed and harvested by individual families.
These corms were an important source of starch in traditional diets.  Corms were usually harvested in the spring.






The
corms can be eaten raw or cooked (4). They can be dried for storage or ground
into flour to be used in baked goods or as a thicken agent.  They can be fried, boiled, roasted or
baked.  Their flavor is mild and slightly
sweet; the slower the cooking time, the sweeter the flavor. 






In
summary, Dichelostemma capitatum is a
great example of a California native geophyte (perennial plant with underground
food storage organ).  It’s an easy choice
for even the novice bulb gardener.  It
comes back reliably, year after year; and it naturalizes, making it a good
bargain as well.  The flowers are pretty
and attract hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s a wonderful link to our natural
heritage in many parts of California.  And the corms are an edible delicacy, worthy
of the traditional and modern palette. 
So, what are you waiting for?








Wild Hyacinth (Bluedicks; Dichelostemma capitatum)

Mother Nature's Backyard


 
















For plant information
sheets on other native plants see:
http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html








__________________




  1. https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=DICAC5

  2. http://encinitasnatives.blogspot.com/2015_11_01_archive.html

  3. MK Anderson, and DL Rowney, Edible Plant
    Dichelostemma capitatum: Its Vegetative Reproduction Response to Different
    Indigenous Harvesting Regimes in California: Restoration Ecology [Restor.
    Ecol.], vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 231-240

  4. Charles W. Kane. Southern California Food Plants:
    Wild Edibles of the Valleys, Foothills, Coast, and Beyond. Lincoln Town
    Press,  2013.







 





 




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welcome your comments (below).  You can
also send your questions to:
mothernaturesbackyard10@gmail.com




 

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